If there are any highly vigorous vines that are invasive weeds where you are, try chopping them up minus their seeds or reproductive roots or nodes, and composting them in a covered composting container, their strong growth chemistry might carry through into the finished compost .
Charles Wilbur uses kudzu in his compost, also he never let's his compost get rained on till it goes in the ground, he stores it in covered trash cans, for up to 3 yrs with little if any loss of fertility.
He says after trial and error, chicken manure spikes growth but then declines when the tomatoes need it most, so he uses cow manure. He says cow manure is slower than chicken manure and not quite as hot so it starts slower but continues longer. Therefore cow manure is almost all grass, so adding lots of grass clipping to the compost and bagging grass clipping and wetting them to semi cook in the bag before use, might be a workable substitute.
The problem with manures = feedlot antibiotics, banned substances being used, hormones fed to the animals, diseases, composting might not degrade and compost.
( another Charles Wilbur tip) Grow rye and hairy vetch as a cover crop, mow, till under before preparing soil for tomatoes, alternate planting clover and soybeans between tomato rows to fix nitrogen.
Add garden worms to the prepared soil too. Mulch with 4 inch thick sections of bale of hay or straw, do NOT hoe tomatoes, you cut side roots that grow out 48+ inches from each side of the plant, water the ground not the plant, use well, river, lake water, NOT tap water. Chlorine stresses the tomatoes a lot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHetN7UIdBk Then there's always the Mittleider mix of minerals added to store bought 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 fertilizer and kept in a tight plastic bucket.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb1LEAEr1rE http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zj7vVgRb6ds http://vimeo.com/channels/74204/7249279 https://aiki.pbworks.com/w/page/1594755/special%20Mittleider%20fertilizer%20mix