Heat, cold, dirt, water, intensity of sunlight, wind stress above beneficial, preferred earliness vs mid summer late summer growing season, macro-micro nutrients / prefered bacterial soil flora, drainage-aeration of soil, lots of earthworms vs few, roots too hot or water logged , elevation of garden above sea level or too low, all this and more makes for good tomato growing season or a poor one for each variety.
Other folks had problems with some of those same varieties too.
http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/tomato/msg1223341331531.htmlJust as an experiment take 10-12 inch long suckers off of your vigorous heavy bearing tomatoes, root them, cut off their tops at an angle and make a small shallow "T" shaped slit in the trunk of the a few of sickly varieties, plant the graft out from the plant to be grafted into, bend the stalk over without breaking it, and graft into the weaker plant, wrap with soft twine or knitting yarn enough to cover the graft site and hold the graft unmoving till it takes.
Graft some small suckers off the weak varieties onto the strong varieties.
use an exacto knife from a craft store - use a butane cigarette lighter / or a charcoal lighter with a trigger and long snout, or a cup of rubbing alcohol to stick the blade in between cuts - to sanitize - between cuts.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=grafting+tomato+plantsGot nothing to loose .
Don't hoe tomatoes it cuts the feeder roots between the rows which are the plant's major feeders. Mulch them 6-8 inches deep, any shallower can't keep root temps moderated in summer heat. 10-20 % shade cloth on some varieties would help - ( cooler temp earlier varieties already suffering in the heat)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHetN7UIdBklook at feed stores for a sulfur magnesium phosphate fertilizer - as low on nitrogen as possible ( do they have sulpho mag or something like it )
If not look for ground up coal klinkers & epsom salts, woods dirt, and kudzu leaves, earth worms, pine needles for a thick mulch. I assume you have plenty of good clay in the soil already.
Buy cheap wooden matches in bulk, and dump a cup full in a bucket of water, let sit for a day, stir up, pour off the water in a watering can, try around a few healthy, a few mediocre, a few sickly plants, a few hrs later mix up 1 tea spoon of epsom salts in 1 gallon of water and watering can the roots of those same test plants, dig up lots of earthworms drizzle around the plants, then chop up kudzu leaves and liquify in an old blender now purposed only for the garden after this, pour on the ground around the plants, then mulch them with the pine needles thickly. Then wait and write down results. Tinker . adjust .
Dig up woods dirt from deep shade, keep out of the sun 100%, UV destroys the miconozzorial flora, at nearly sunset mix with well water or distilled water or rain water ( put a barrel under a gutter on the house or barn or shed to collect it cheap) , move the mulch back, water with woods dirt water around the plant and covering between the rows, put the mulch back thickly.
If you can't get pile needles use leaves from the woods, hay, rotted sawdust 3+ yrs old, chipper truck ground up stuff, etc, or a mixture .
Mulch 8 + inches deep and let it sit on top of the soil and stay there.
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Jacob Mittleider developed a system of observing plant growth and symptoms as to what nutrient to supply or was out of balance locking up uptake for those varieties, in these links there may be answers to macro and micro nutrients and things that help. Your green house plants may be getting balanced feed for those varieties while the garden ones suffer.
In these links look for fertilizer formulas fertilizer recipes, mentions of small curling leaves etc .
http://growfood.com/ http://growfood.com/meet-dr-mittledier/ http://peaceofpreparedness.com/Resource%20Library/Gardening/Growing%20Tomatoes.pdf https://sites.google.com/site/myfarmingsecrets/mittleider-method 